12/26/2006

Sample some parklife in Poland

Krakow might just be eastern Europe’s most evocative city, an enticing and moving urban narrative of Jewish and Catholic tragedy. But you can get so engrossed in its beautiful cobbled alleys and squares that the history becomes oppressive.

After a few days, you may need to breathe. The solution is to take a bus just 15 miles to the northwest, to the idyllic escape of the Ojcow valley national park. Spend half a day there and you will return to Krakow refreshed for your homeward flight.



The village of Ojcow is a perfect introduction to the park, an unspoilt farmers’ settlement with rustic cottages and a couple of places to sample decent beer and the inevitable Polish sausage.

Towards the end of the 19th century, the village enjoyed a brief spell as a fashionable health resort, although its two prestigious hotels are now used as a museum and a post office.

You are here for the great outdoors, though, and Ojcow is the starting point for some gentle hikes through neighbouring forests.

Most visitors follow the Eagle’s Nest trail, tracing a string of medieval fortresses in the area built on high land to keep an eye on the pesky Czechs. Pieskowa Skala castle is the newest (a mere 6½ centuries old) and easily the best preserved. It has borrowed some European art treasures from the Wawel Royal Castle in Krakow, but the scenery round about is a more enticing prospect.

With a little extra time, you can explore the cave complex that lines the valley. Some of them are reassuringly reminiscent of all those murky little basement bars you will have spent so much time at back in Krakow.

Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) has flights from Glasgow Prestwick to Krakow from £40.44 return.

Buses from Krakow in the direction of Olkusz will take you to Ojcow in about half an hour. By car, it is a 15-minute drive from the city.

Source:timesonline.co.uk



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